Wednesday, December 12th, 2007
material
wool random fold dress, UNIFORM Studio, winter 2007
In architecture, the type of material that is used for a building structure or skin will start to dictate how the building is made and inspire the overall design and form. Material, detail and form are dependent on each other. Until recently I hadn’t considered how this is also true when making a garment.
Before making the random fold dress out of wool, I hadn’t made many (any?) garments a second time using a different material. When I made this version, I realized how much more drape the fabric has than the original denim, and how a deeper fold would show off this material quality better. So I made the folds on the front wider and also added a fold at the back. I really like the single fold on the back -it adds some volume to the back and makes the dress seem more like a whole rather than a dress with some detail on the front. I also like how the single fold emphasizes the asymmetry.
wool random fold dress (back), UNIFORM Studio, winter 2007
This dress is also fully lined (it’s silver!!*). Even though this is the softest wool I’ve ever felt, I thought it needed a lining to make it feel finished. And the lining allows the sleeves and bottom edge to have no visible hem, which I think makes it feel more volumetric and elegant.
wool random fold dress (fold detail), UNIFORM Studio, winter 2007
Of course, these are all minor details that you probably don’t even notice in a photograph. But fun for me to think about.
The random fold dress update to my shop is going to have to be after the first of the year. I just realized that the end of the year is coming up fast, and I have grading to do, recommendation letters to write, and lots of cookies to eat. There will be several denim dresses available (maybe more than several?) but not so many wool ones. I think I only have enough for three, possibly four, and one is spoken for. And I might just want to keep one….I have my eye out for some more soft wool though.
*it is silver, in color anyway, and bad pun completely intended.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 12:06 am:
Absolutly, positivly the most BEAUTIFUL piece yet.
Again with the “sigh…” & “I want”!
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 12:09 am:
this dress!
oh how i love this dress!
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 12:44 am:
Thanks for sharing–it’s lovely.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 1:07 am:
I think this is my favorite piece so far. [I feel like I’ve said that before though.] I love the fold on the back…perfect detail, perfectly placed. Crossing my fingers I can snag one at your next shop update.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 1:07 am:
It’s beautiful! I really like the single asymmetric fold in the back.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 1:57 am:
mmm. like the concept of continuing the “feature” detailing to the back. certainly completes this garment beautifully.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 2:47 am:
just gorgeous martha!! xo
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 3:11 am:
darn, I was hoping I could get one for all those christmas parties. I’ll just have to go to more parties next year.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 4:40 am:
oh, martha… so so so beautiful.
love reading your thoughts about how the material dictates the form… that single asymmetrical fold on the back is such a good detail. the drape of this, the volume… **sigh** my fingers will have to be faster at your next update
good luck with the end of semester work, and enjoy those cookies!
xox
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 6:16 am:
oh my gosh, gorgeous, i want, i want! i’ll be first in line when you post it in your shop. santa, please leave me a little cash for a new dress…
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 1:15 pm:
I picked up some super soft gray wool flannel today for pants for Papa. I haven’t forgotten about the package I owe you, I’m hoping to get it to you this weekend.
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 1:47 pm:
Stunning. I didn’t think the denim version could be improved………this is beautiful!
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 2:41 pm:
This is so gorgeous! I love how you drew the correlation between architecture and garment making too; they are so similar in many ways! And the little details *do* make a difference… even if they’re not apparent in the photos. It just looks like such a fuzzy, tactile dress… beautiful!
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 3:41 pm:
that is so so beautiful. wow. martha, you are so good at this!
(patiently awaiting the new year)
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 4:32 pm:
almost as amazing as the finished product is your ability to share your thought-process. i too, have been thinking a lot about material lately and reading your blog has really helped me “get my thoughts out” — become more aware of the subconscious aspects of the design process - in order to be CLEAR…. very inspiring, you are!
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 5:34 pm:
NICE DRESS!
on Thursday, December 13th, 2007 at 9:44 pm:
It’s amazing how small changes can mae a good thing even better. That fold on the back is great.
I’m glad you are making long sleeved dresses. I’ve been looking out for a good one and I have to say they aren’t as easy to find as you might think. Not something as beautiful as yours anyway…
on Friday, December 14th, 2007 at 4:25 am:
Oh, so beautiful! It is my complete intention to save up any Christmas money which may come my way, fight through the virtual line of people waiting at Etsy, and purchase one of your beautiful dresses!
Thank you as always for your gorgeous and inspiring work.
on Sunday, December 16th, 2007 at 5:15 am:
Love the silver lining pun- Makes me want to use silver linings all the time just so that I can tell people
Beautiful dress too- I think it’s so important to observe what the materials are capable of, and I love the way you’ve adapted the style for the different fabric.
on Sunday, December 16th, 2007 at 10:16 am:
This looks so very smashing, so very beautiful… and, of course, it has me longing for cooler days. Brilliant work, as always.
take care, grache
on Friday, December 21st, 2007 at 12:50 am:
loving the deeper folds in the wool fabric.
my strand necklace is beautiful. thank you.
on Wednesday, December 26th, 2007 at 6:42 pm:
hello !!
i leave in france, and i love your dresses!!! how can i do to buy this one??? lease answer me !
i want buy all of them!
thanks+++++++
sam
on Monday, January 7th, 2008 at 12:09 am:
Beautiful desing. That dress would be wonderful in a crisp nubby linen….I will keep my eye on y our shop!